Radiant Floor Heating in Cortland, OH
Heat that comes up through the floor instead of blowing across the room — installed in new slabs and additions, and serviced when an existing system quits.
Signs you need this
- You're pouring a new slab — garage, shop, pole barn, basement, or addition — and want heat in it before the concrete goes down
- One room is always cold no matter where you set the thermostat
- You're finishing a basement or building an addition and don't want to run ductwork into it
- You're tired of forced air blowing dust around and drying the house out all winter
- A zone of your existing radiant floor has gone cold while the rest of the house still heats
- Your boiler runs and runs but the floor never actually gets warm
What's involved
Radiant floor heat runs warm water through PEX tubing laid in or under the floor, which turns the whole floor into the radiator. Instead of a vent blowing hot air at the ceiling and letting it fall, the heat starts at your feet and rises evenly across the room. No ductwork, no blowing dust, no cold spots in the corners, and it's quiet — most people notice the silence before they notice the warmth.
Where it's easiest and cheapest is a new pour. If you're putting down a slab for a garage, a shop, a pole barn, a basement, or an addition, we lay and tie the tubing to the mesh, pressure-test it, and leave it under pressure while the concrete goes in. That's the job we get asked for most around here, and it's the one where the math works best. Retrofitting a house that's already finished is a different animal — if there's a basement or crawlspace underneath we can often work from below, but under a finished first floor sitting on a slab it usually isn't worth what it costs. We'll tell you which one you've got before you spend anything.
The other half of this is fixing what's already in the ground. Plenty of homes around Trumbull County already have hydronic heat — in-floor or old baseboard — and when a zone goes cold the assumption is that the whole system is shot. Usually it isn't. Most of the time it's air trapped in the loop, a failed zone valve, a circulator that's stopped, or a mixing valve that's drifted out of range. Those are all fixable without touching your floor. We diagnose it before anybody starts talking about tearing concrete out.
Our process
- Step 01Look at the space
New pour or finished house? That one answer changes the whole job, so we come look before quoting.
- Step 02Heat loss & layout
We size the loops, spacing, and zones to your actual rooms and insulation — not a generic rule of thumb.
- Step 03Install or repair
Tubing and manifold set and pressure-tested, and we leave it under pressure while concrete goes down.
- Step 04Purge, balance, document
Air purged, zones balanced, and we show you where the manifold and shutoffs are before we leave.
Why Perfect Pitch
- We pressure-test the loop and leave it under pressure while the concrete is poured — if a line gets nicked, you find out that day, not next winter.
- Heat loss calculation and loop layout for your rooms, not one spacing applied to the whole house.
- On a cold zone we check air, circulator, and zone valve first. Most 'dead' radiant floors are not dead.
- A straight answer when radiant is the wrong call for your house — a finished first floor on a slab is not the same job as a new pour, and we'll say so.
Frequently asked
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